It happened again a few days ago. Someone came into our shop and said "I want a corset, but don't make me look like that woman on Guiness book of records" my response to this statement is pretty much the same for everyone:
I promise you dahling, I won't! no matter how much you pay me!
The reasons for this are two-fold
1) While I do apreciate the discipline that goes into that kind of tightlacing, Those people are bloody ugly. I do not appreciate the aesthetic, it goes against what I believe corsetry should be.
2) That kind of change will take years. Long before you start moving into the sphere of the bizarre, you are going to notice that you have taken it too far and you are going to do something about it.
That said. I supose that that is how most of these people ended up that shape in the first place.
Beyond all else, I believe in beauty. And I believe that while beauty takes many forms, there is a kind of a golden mean of proportion.
I have heard other corsetierres harping on about ultimate measurements and "magical" numbers - basically the saying that 18" is considered the ultimate waist measurement and that anything under that is considered even more potent and sexual. Again. Bollocks! Lets firstly keep sex out of it for a change, and secondly, each person is built differently, so how can one thing be right for all?
So how to decide on a waist-hip-bust proportion?
Generally, a woman who is evenly proportioned can lace smaller than one who has a larger bust or larger hips, since the waist on a pear or triangle shaped woman already looks smaller than it actually is due to her prominant feature. While such a woman often just needs to be nipped in an inch or two, the correct length corset is of uptmost importance in these situations - a busty woman should never wear an underbust and a hippy one should stay away from corsets with a long straight cut bottom.
Body shapes have changed drastically over the years. I use a European sizing chart from the 1950's as the base for my corsets as I believe that the bust/waist/hip proportion on that chart (which was the average women's natural shape in that time) is near curvaceous perfection.
Here is an example:
a size 32 on my chart is: (bust) 83cm ,(waist) 65cm, (hip) 90cm - a perfect hourglass.
A modern woman of the same bust and hip measurement usually has a waist of no less than 75cm. (and you wondered why you couldn't get into any of those lovely vintage dresses?)
Women in previous eras wore foundation garments from a young age which allowed their bodies to grow into a slim feminine shape.
Ok, back to my initial argument. A corset should perfect your curves and accentuate your waist to the point where you are just beyond natural, Not so far that you start looking like a caricature, but just far enough that you will attract a second glance - which is always an admiring one!
I cannot tell you how many inches you need your waist measurement to be. I don't start a corset with a waist measurement in mind, In fact, I don't remember when last I designed a corset around a number. But I do start with a shape in mind - a shape that will be perfect on you whether you are tall, short, skinny, voluptious, long waisted or short torso. I work within the bounds of each woman's body and how to make her a better version of herself.
In our photoshoots, we strive for classic corsetted beauty. No hardcore dreadlocks, piercings, tattoos and silicon enhanced body parts, Alternative models in corsets are easy to come by, what is not is a modern beauty which while still edgy and real is aproachable, attainable and crosses the boundries that people have set for themselves in their standards of beauty. This is what a corset should be.
