A Forest Affair

I had been so looking forward to seeing the photos of Liza and Andries' wedding after working so closely with Liza in the months that it took to make her dress that I nearly burst with excitement when I got a letter from Liza saying that the pics were up, and what I saw when I clicked on the link was truly worthy of the anticipation. A breathtaking forest fairy wedding in greens and purples.
Liza's gown is is not what one could call traditional. No poofy skirts or sequins here. Not even the more subdued option of fitted lace and pleats. What it is, is layer upon layer of ethereal chiffon cut away in asymetrically at the hem so that the underlays show and create movement. In contrast to the dreamy skirt, the very structured corset featured a combination of brocade and dupion silk with piped detail and hand-dyed lace straps. Instead of a traditional veil, Liza opted for bolero with a train edged in lace which completed the outfit perfectly.  Here comes the really exciting part -the whole dress is in shades of vivid green and purple!
When It came to time for the dancing, Liza swished off the skirt to reveal a second shorter skirt  which had acted as a petticoat underneath - also in the layered chiffon, but much more striking colours with more dramatic cutaways and a pair of glorious purple sky-high Nine West sandals!
And the icing - A gorgeous Groom and and equally gorgeous bridesmaid and groomsmen in apple green and purple, a vintage MG, beautiful surroundings courtasy of the Galagos Country Estate and family and friends including Liza's dad, Correy who was intergrally involved in the design of the dress.
Without further wordiness, I give you Pictures! by Garick @ Lucinda du toit Photographic d'art

Ulricke & Grant's wedding

I love doing weddings. I love the celebration, the ritual and the way that a wedding brings people together like no other occasion. This particular wedding is very special to me as Ulricke has been one of my closest friends for well on a decade and I was privileged enough to be one of her bridesmaids. When Ulricke told me that Grant had popped the question I was so excited as I can imagine no other person so perfect for her, and we had a dress to make!  I had always promised her that one day I would make her wedding dress.
The design at the end of the day is a classic A-line corset dress in mocha-coloured duchess satin with lace-work in ivory corded Chantilly lace and a chocolate chiffon sash. Good enough to eat colours that flatter her warm complexion and give a unique twist to her wedding dress.

The wedding was held at Hertford Country House Hotel, an elegant yet rustic venue (with exquisite catering) that perfectly complimented the relaxed vintage meets country theme that was full of beautiful nooks and crannies that were taken full advantage of by the lovely photographers at Splendid Productions.

So, you want to be a model?

One of the most common questions that we get asked is: "so, where do you find your models? Are they from a specific agency?" the answer to the second half of that question is, nope. We don't use agency models, which brings me to the first half. The answer of which is, everywhere. Our models are normal women from all walks of life: lawyers, students, teachers, environmentalists and journalists to name a few of our models actual professions. 


They are friends, clients and other interested and interesting people who either wonder into our shop of are dragged in by an excited friend and end up staying.

So the short answer is, yes. We are always on the lookout for new models. It is not a closed club by any means, our models are gorgeous women like yourself who look great in our clothes.

So here is what we look for....

*No previous experience neccessary. A lot of the shoots you see are the first time that that particular person has done any modelling. If we like you (and the feeling is mutual) then you may become one of our regulars who we call up when we have something specific to shoot, that we know will look drop dead on you. Or, if we have an idea that we know you will love (or you give us an call with an idea that you know we will love :)

* Models can be of any ethnicity. We would love to shoot more african, asian and indian women *hint hint*

*open minded, easy going and no body issues. There are few things worse for a clothing designer and a photographer that starting to shoot and the model starts winging about how much she hates a certain part of her body and would we please refrain from shooting that part. If we didn't like your body, we wouldn't be shooting you so shut up. 
* oh, and no hang-ups! We style and dress you in a way that we think is the most flattering to your body in styles and colours that suit you, we aren't going to tell you before the shoot what you are going to be wearing, and you don't get to choose what you wear in a shoot. Trust us, it's our job to make you look your absolute best! 

*Size 30 - Bust 81cm, waist 65cm, hip 88cm (or as close as possible) This isn't because we discriminate against fuller figured models as we were recently accused of doing (or super tiny for that matter!) . It is because this is our rail sample and mannequin size. It is the best size for use to make our samples in in order to get accurate grading for larger and smaller sizes. We also photograph all of our samples on mannequins both for our own records, and for our online shop and it is important that clothing fits perfectly for that. We very seldom make clothing to fit a specific model for a shoot as we are then stuck with samples in an unusual size that we cannot sell or shoot on anyone else. 

*Height from 5'3" (161cm) up

*Any bust size, from teeny to super duper. (we do tend to have a preference for a smaller bust in clothing, but a larger bust really works with a corset!.

We do prefer our models to be as proportionate as possible - ie, have hips and bust in proportion whether you are skinny or curvaceous.

*hair any length and colour but must be in good condition with fresh colour - no roots. 

Please no undercuts, shaved bits, mullets, very heavily layered hair or other "subculture" styles. Dreads welcome as long as they are long, clean and well kept without bits of floatsam (beads, thread, last night's dinner etc) stuck in them

*All piercings particularly facial and multiple ear piercings must be removable. No large gauge plugs.

*Tattoos must be easily concealable within a low cut short sleeved shirt.  We do occasionally show a model's tats, but only when they work with the outfit. 

Please no permanent eyeliner, it is almost impossible to cover!

As we don't consider ourselves a subculture brand, we avoid using "alternative" models or models who are obviously a part of a specific subculture. (often if someone does look particularly goth/rockabilly/kugel/sufergirl etc we will style them in a way that is the complete opposite of how they usually look

*No, you don't get paid and you don't get to choose clothing or keep what you wear in a shoot. You get amazing pics.


*must be 18yrs or over and willing to sign a model release.

*We do sometimes look for models outside of these criteria for themed shoots, so please send us a couple of clear, recent pics of yourself, full length, face and of any distinguishing characteristics with your measurements and a write-up about yourself and we will keep you on our books!

We want women who have unusual looks and character as well as those who are traditionally beautiful, so don't count yourself out because you have particular characteristic that is to your mind "un-model-like"

Think you're up for the challenge? give a call or an e-mail 011 447 0247 or arwen@arwen.co.za

Ugly Begone!

My top items of clothing that really should just die and never come back!

1) Denim skirts.
 I hold a special place of loathing in my heart for denim. I am however willing to admit that jeans do have their up-side, such as every now and then when I need something that I really don't mid ruining for when I am working in the garden or painting or working on a vehicle. The one denim item that has no upside whatsoever though is denim skirts. really, who on earth actually thought that that would be a good idea? They are always shapeless. When long, they look like a piece of cardboard, when short they look skanky. always. They also always look reeeeeeallly badly dated.

No, this pic isn't from and 80's teen mag, it's from the latest ASOS catalogue!

2) Bodysuits (and or teddies)
They're back and bad as ever. I wore them in the 90's and am still needing therapy to get over the fact. Why would anyone want to do that to the world again? Tops should not have crotches. Panties ought never have snaps. Not practical, sexy, flattering or comfortable. At best, they make your torso look too short and your bust, saggy.

cos the only way they could make it look like it fits is to make her do aerobics

3) Poo-pants
They are not Harem pants. Harem pants don't have a dropped crotch. They are the bastard child of hammer-pants and a nappy. (oh, and the make your ass look huge and your legs look stunted and deformed, particulary if they are slim fitting over the calf)

Rickets - the latest fashion disease

4) G-strings (or thongs)

Give worse panty-line than any other form of underwear (the reason that you think otherwise is because you are wearing the wrong size) and give you urinary tract infections. They also make your arse look like two huge dimpled water balloons hanging over a piece of frayed string. Sexy!

5) Just too short tops and 6) Just too low cut pants

Oh, the muffin top. Enough said.

7) Kitten heels

Either wear flats, or wear a pair of real heels. Kitten heels make you look like your weight has compressed your heels into the floor. They also make your ankles and calves look chunky and are near impossible to walk elegantly in.


8)baby-doll dresses and tops

Unlike the empire line which has a high waist and fitted body, the baby-doll flares from below the bust (often with gathering too).  Baby-dolls don't hide figure flaws, they just make you look pregnant, which considered with the term "baby-doll" (which by the way, you are not) brings up a whole herd of creepy fetishist connotations.

can you say teen pregnancy?

9) Leggings.
Rather wear stockings or tights (both of which have feet) leggings are unflattering to your leg shape, and anyway, If you think that your skirt is too short, don't wear it.  Either wear a skirt or pants, never both.

denim skirt AND leggings. *cringe*

10) Short shorts.
We don't want to know about your labia piercing or whether you are on your period.

11) Gilets
Like a waistcoat, but usually unfitted and furry. Makes you look like a half metamorphasised extra in one of super-low budget werewolf movies.

This one doesn't say werewolf so much as were-pavement special

Body love

The supermarket which we frequent is upstairs from a gym, so yesterday upon running in to grab a couple of supplies, I was accosted by a gym membership salesman at the doorway to the supermarket who was flanked by a photo of a seriously toned and shiny, although constipated looking woman.  Usually I am pretty good at avoiding these types by moving to the other side of the door and letting other people be between me and the salesperson, however not this time.
 He was rather adamant about the pros of his gym and that I should "get fit for summer"although I did point out that it is coming up winter and even if it weren't I would not even consider going in the sun or wearing some sort of floss monstrosity to parade around a pool. I am much more interested in a pretty sun-dress and a cocktail or six in the shade.
So while he waffled on,  I looked at the photo of the woman, and thought that I would hate to look in the mirror and see that body and I would hate the paranoia and obsession that goes with a body like that. No offence to my gym-bunny friends, but I grew up in a house with a body-builder mother and know what  having a hard body entails.

Even above and beyond the seriously restrictive and unappetising (and continual) diets, the early morning rising and the all encompassing midset, I don't find that type of body attractive. I would not like myself. I love looking in the mirror and seeing curves, I love looking good in dresses (fit women don't - you need a waist to wear a dress) and I love having strong, well proportioned legs that don't look like an anatomical sketch.
Now don't get me wrong, gyms aren't all bad. Some people need the discipline of a gym otherwise they won't get any exercise at all. What I am against is the "one standard of beauty" institution that pervades gyms as well as the concept that anything that falls outside of their very limited view of what is healthy, is wrong. I am also very very against these routines "to target problem areas" that seem to be so common. That is one of the worst things that you can do, as you over-strenghen certain areas of your body to the detriment of others. You also usually ruin your natural proportion. For a woman to hold an excessive amount of fat in one particular area (eg, tummy) indicates that there is a deeper problem that no amount of exersise will solve. See a medical professional and a dietition, not a gym membership.

What is often lacking in our world is an understanding of the whole picture as well as a respect for moderation. We are so encouraged to look only at tiny details and to do everything to extremes and we forget that there is more to the world. This goes for diet and exercise too.
Exercise in a wholistic way - walking, for example gets everything moving in the way it was designed to work and also therefore tones your body in a way that creates the shape you are meant to be. And eat in a wholistic way - a little bit of everything. I have found that living in this way for a number of years has made me aware of my body. I am very aware of what foods are best for me and what I should avoid. Which are my strong and weak points and how to work with my body without further harming things that I have damaged in the past. I have also not had weight problems for a number of years.

I was obese into my early 20's and had been dieting and gyming fairly consistantly since my teens. This kind of extreme lifestyle of over-eating followed by dieting and excessive and unbalanced exersise basically made me lose touch with my body and caused a lot of long and short term health issues.
I don't believe in denying myself anything. I love a piece of cake. It doesn't mean that I am going to eat a whole one. I am also not going to go on a three week long guilt trip because I had a piece of cake, I am going to enjoy every minute of it! Everything in in moderation makes the world go round, makes you a happier person and teaches you to love and respect the body that you are in.

Dressing for a fuller figure: Part 1 - What lies beneath

As someone who lived on the larger side of life for my teens and most of my twenties, I understand the frustration of shopping for large clothes, and as a designer who often makes beautiful clothing to make the best of a voluptuous figure, I know how to dress for curves. Dressing a voluptuous figure is no more difficult than dressing a slender one, sadly most of the advice out there is along the lines of either lose weight, wear a tent or add so much unflattering detail that you can't see the person for the frills! I don't plan to tell you to do any of that. In fact, most of what I will tell you is the pole opposite of what is generally considered flattering for a larger figure.

1) Body

If you hate your body, there is not much that anyone can do to make you look gorgeous. Shed all of the guilt and self-loathing then we'll start. I am not going to tell you to lose weight because that really isn't an answer for anything. As Mika warbled, " big girls, you are beautiful!" Embrace your body as it is now, not as you wish it were. You are living in it now and unlike a house, there's not much chance of you moving out. Very few women who plan to lose weight actually do it successfully and long-term. Crash Dieting, pills etc will only damage your health and as long as you are healthy, who cares about a few (or a lot) of extra kilos. That said, and now that you have determined that cake is better than lettuce, take a look at your body and decide which parts you love and want to show off, and which ones need a little help.

2) The Help 

Dressing well isn't about size, it is about shape, and you perfect your shape with the right underwear. One of my favorite quotes is by Christian Dior "without foundation there can be no fashion" he was so right. Have a look at photos of women pre 1960. You really think that they just naturally looked that good? No bra was ever responsible for Jane Russel's gravity defying 38DD's in the strapless dresses of the day.  Even flappers in the 20's wore foundation garments. The ideal eras to use as inspiration are 30's - 50's, Women were super curvaceous and the fashions were all about large bums and boobs with tiny waists and ranged from sleek suits to playful day-dresses to elegant draped evening wear, and under it all was, you guessed it corsets!

Don't think of a corset purely as the Victorian variety. There are dozens of different garments in the corset family and they each do something different. Dependant on the outfit, either you choose your clothing based on your undergarments (day-wear) or visa versa for eveningwear. The corset for beneath a heavily structured fishtail dress is very different to what you would wear beneath a languid bias-cut gown (and yes, more than anything you need the corset for the gown as the structured fishtail will inevitably have one built it!) 

 A corset and a girdle are every girl’s best friend. A corset will support your bust and pull in your waist creating a perfect hourglass. A girdle will flatten tummy, smooth out your silhouette and lift and round your bum. Wear either piece or both together depending on the outfit and the amount of shaping you require.

Bras & knickers

If you are a D-cup or larger, a bra will never give you adequate bust support. In actuality, a bra on a large busted woman will over time also damage her spine. Simply put, a bra takes the weight of the bust and hangs it from the shoulders while a corset centers the weight over the core. (which also allows it to be strapless) the underwire on a bra can also cause pinched nerves and skin lesions on large sizes. A good alternative to a bra is a vertically boned Merry Widow, which is a soft flexible 1950's style corset. Don't buy one with bra-cups in it or you are defeating the purpose of a corset. (there is an article in the FAQ's on my website on why corsets don't have cups) the boning of the Merry Widow must go over the bust.

If you are going to be wearing a bra for everyday (usually with a girdle) invest in the best one you possibly can and ensure that it fits correctly. Only a very small portion of the women who come through my shop wear the correct size bra. Unfortunately most shops that offer measuring services will measure you to be a size that they stock no-matter how incorrect it is. For them, it is all about getting the sale.

Many of you know of an experiment that I did a number of years ago where I went to nearly a dozen lingerie shops to be measured and not one was correct. I was measured as anywhere between a 32C and 36B. My real size at the time - a 34A is always held in short stock and the first to sell out.

The easiest way to find out your size is to download a measurement diagram and measure yourself - It's easy. Another good thing to remember is that each company has their own patterns and one company’s bras may fit you better than another one. Although it is less common in European and American made product, sizes do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. When buying bras online (the only way to really get a good selection) measure yourself with the diagram supplied by that website as it is written with their product in mind. Last but not least - read the labels and the blurb on the website and do not buy anything made in China or Korea. If possible support manufacturers (not importers) in your country. If the website doesn't tell you where the product is manufactured either ask them or go somewhere else. 

Although they are becoming increasingly difficult to get, a longline bra is one of the nicest styles to wear; particularly with a girdle. This bra continues 2" - 4" down your ribcage and is lightly boned beneith the bra cups. They help to smooth the ribcage and don't cause back flub. They also ensure that there is no gap between your girdle and your bra where your skin may ooze out and ensure a completely sleek silhouette.

*Note: A longline bra is not a corset or a basque. If it extends past your ribcage and/or has suspenders (garters) throw it away and carry on looking.  Basques are vile! Yes they look sexy, for about three and a half minutes before the "boning" buckles and they create all sorts of new rolls around your stomach. A good general rule is to avoid anything that has panels of completely sheer stretchy mesh - nothing see-through offers support. 

When shopping for underwear, take your time in the fitting room, make sure that what you are trying on offers enough coverage and doesn't create new bulges and lumps with the elastic. With panties, if in doubt try another cut or a size larger and never ever ever wear a g-string (and that goes for all girls of any shape and size!) they are unflattering - let's face it, anyone who thinks that a pair of pendulous orbs hanging out on either side of a piece of genital floss is sexy, should be institutionalised. You wouldn't let your breasts look like that, don't do it to your bum. 

G-strings also give far worse panty line than a pair of well fitting full (or boyleg) panties as the thin elastic at the top cuts into your hips making you look like you have saddlebags even if you don't. And, they give you urinary tract infections. I won't go into the details of that one, you can ask you doctor for the roundup, but they are unhealthy and that is more important than anything!

Girdles

Many of our clients refer to their girdle as their "vacuum packer" and that is just the perfect description. A girdle is a garment that was popular from the late 20's through to the early 60's in various forms which is designed to flatten the tummy and smooth, sculpt and lift the bum, hips and thighs. They are indispensable under not only workwear and more formal clothing bust also under well-fitted daywear. There are a number of different types of girdles available, but very few that are worth your time and money. The ones that you need are:

1: the classic High Waist Open bottomed girdle. It looks like a high waisted skin-tight mini-skirt and often comes with detachable suspenders. Perfect under any skirt or dress the high waist sculpts your waist and flattens and smooths your tummy.they are usually lightly boned around the waist so they don't pinch or roll down. Many women ask about all-in-ones, which are a girdle with built in bra. Personally I find it far more comfortable to wear a two-piece, so I seldom recommend them It is also very difficult to get a correct fit with an all-in-one as torso lengths vary so much and the bra-cups often end up sitting either too high or too low. If you are large busted rather wear a corset with a Shortie girdle over it for the same effect.

A shortie is a standard waisted girdle – i.e.: the top edge is in the waist not above it. Do not wear a shortie girdle with a bra. As the girdle ends too low in the waist, digs in and creates an unflattering roll of skin above it. These are for wear with corsets only.

2: a Panty-girdle or pants-liner.

A panty-girdle looks like a full panty with a reinforced front. If you can get a high-waisted one, buy it in all colours! When buying a panty-girdle, you have to try it on, guess work just does not do. Make sure that it sits securely under your bum cheeks but does not cause a roll either at the top or the bottom. There are some really great seamless ones out at present which do away with the problem of tight elastic around the leg holes which in cheaper ones digs in to cause unsightly bulges and can chafe quite badly. Pants-liners are a panty-girdle with long legs – ankle length. Standard panty girdles are great for under slacks or jeans, pants liners are for under tight pants, and believe me when sized correctly, they work! Pants-liners are quite hard to get hold of, but there are some very good support hose on the market which are a great alternative.

Do not EVER buy a panty-girdle with legs that end on the thigh. They are one of the most heinous inventions ever. Not only do they roll down at the top, but they force your thighs to ooze out at the bottom too, and it is impossible to go to the bathroom in them. All in all, they make you look worse than you did before and with a full bladder to boot!

Dont even think it. Not any brand, not ever!

Note on choosing girdle sizes: If it takes you 15 minutes to wriggle into, it is the correct size. If a girdle is too loose it won’t do what it is meant to do. We had a client come through recently wearing the most ill fitting girdle I’ve ever seen, it actually added on 3cm around her waist and hips. Unfortunately this particular incident was due to an ignorant sales-person at the store she had bought it who told her to buy it two sizes too big otherwise it would be too tight! 

Stockings

Not necessary, but nice. Stockings really finish off an outfit!

I’m taking actual thigh high stockings, not pantyhose. Stockings are kind of like a sexy girdle for your legs – they smooth out any cellulite and imperfections and give the illusion of perfect contours. If you are going to wear fishnets, wear a pair of sheer stockings under them to keep your skin smooth. 

A misconception is that stockings are uncomfortable. Not true at all, they are far more comfy than pantihose, in that they don’t twist and work their way downward over the course of the day. Ensure that your suspender belt or girdle has a minimum of six suspenders – three on each leg. Any less and your stockings will not hold correctly. Always buy stockings a size too big – they will sit higher on your thigh, not cut in at the top and will last much longer without laddering.

Modern clothing is generally designed to stretch to fit, not to truly fit, which is why very few women look their best or even really know how to dress for their body. In the past everything had to fit correctly as there was no stretch and as a result, clothing was not only more flattering, but also far more foolproof. If the skirt didn’t fit, there was no way you could pretend it did!

 Wearing correct underwear will feel different to anything that you have worn before. It will, particularly in the beginning be restrictive and a lot tighter than what you are used to, This is what underwear is meant to feel like - it is meant to perfect your body and provide a base over which your clothes drape. It also gives you the peace of mind that comes with knowing that everything in your sleek silhouette is exactly where it should be. Check yourself from all angles to ensure that everything is smooth then look at yourself in the mirror, is that gorgeous body not worth a little extra work?

And, if you still have any doubt as to the magic that foundation garments can work on a voluptuous figure, just watch Christina Hendricks in Mad Men. She’ll change your mind!

Strange bedfellows

We are bird people, as in no cats, dogs, children or horse type things, we have birds. Lots of them and lots of different types including three species of quail, six species of pheasants, three parrots, a pair of Black Orpingtons and a Von der Decken hornbill.  They all have their own environments and specialised diets, Quite a few of our birds are also rescues who need careful care and consideration, not only about their physical needs, but also their emotional needs and who they can share an aviary with. We have built up a good balance and as a result, have very few fights although quite a few of them would murder the other were they in the wild.
An incident that occured earlier today made me realise exactly how much like people birds are (or visa-versa)

A rain quail

Among the flocks, we have a male Rain Quail named Bumblebee, who is ridiculously oversexed. And no I am not joking (the vet thought it was pretty funny too!). He doesn't care what species the other bird is, let alone gender, if he can get on top, that is all that matters! This is such a problem that we have not only moved him out of the outside aviaries, but are going to give him a course of estrogen injections as it is practically the only option we have now. (castration is very expensive and very dangerous with birds)

So we first moved him in with Milo the Kakariki (a hyperactive little parrot from New Zealand) as personality wise the seemed a good match and Milo has a huge cage. Milo did not like that idea.
So we moved him in with Bob, the hornbill. Who is a girl, just for the record. We watched them carefully for a few days as we were worried that Bob would consider Bumblebee as a small feathered snack, but they settled down happily together pretty much immedietly. Bumblebee sits under Bob's food bowl to steal little bits of fruit that she drops and Bob hops down to plunder Bumblee's food if she thinks that he has something better.

Today we decided that because Bumblebee still calls for the other quails, and since we can keep an easy watch on them, we would move one of the other male rain quails in with him. We choose Rooster who is a very sweet, gentle little guy who gets bullied no-matter where he is. We put Rooster in the the cage and let the two quails acclimatise to each other and then moved away to see how Bob would react. She immedietly hopped down onto the ground and tocked poor Rooster on the head with that huge beak. I chased her back up to the top of the cage again and as soon as I was out of sight, she was back on the floor trying to have a go (read: eat) at Rooster. We quickly took him out of the cage and put him back in the outside aviary.
Bob and Bumblebee settled down immedietly like nothing had ever happened and are now happily living together again.

It was a rather surprising experiment that a preditor and prey species can live together and that birds are so fussy over who they will share their house with, and that some people like little Rooster will always get bullied no-matter what. Which is sad, but true.

A pair of Von Der Deckens